The extraordinary 1998 Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis is more structured, powerful,

and concentrated than the 1997. My ratings for the component parts ranged

from a low of 90 - 92 for La Grande Plantee, to a high of 94 - 96 for La Pommiere

and Pavillon Rouge. All revealed huge colors, earthy, smoky noses with

bacon fat and black currants, and various degrees of tannin. This is unquestionably

a vintage for patient connoisseurs as it requires cellaring. It is dense, chewy,

and muscular. /RP /Apr 2002